Chapati, Chapati, Before It's Too Late

One of the best hidden gems of local cuisine is actually stowed all the way inside Malaysian territory in Singapore. Paradox? Not really.

Before the month of May this year, I suppose most Singaporeans (especially the younger generation) did not know much about the Tanjong Pagar Railway Station, much less even noticed the colonial low-rise building situated along Keppel Road. I must admit I was one of those ignorant many, even less forgiveable since I work in close enough vicinity to the area.

A legacy from British colonial days. Inside the railway station.
The mural on the right wall reads FMSR - Federated Malay States Railways

Although sitting right smack in the middle of Singapore's prime business district, the land which the railway and the station sit on actually belongs to KTM - Malaysia's national rail company.  The historical events leading to this peculiar arrangement of land sovereignty between both countries hail back to the days of British colonial occupation, when Singapore was part of Malaya before gaining independence from the Federated States in 1965.

A much disputed political (and sovereign) issue between the neighbouring countries, the railway land matter finally came to a hilt earlier in May this year, when the respective Prime Ministers agreed to move the existing railway operations to Woodlands by 1 July 2011, leaving behind the current plot of land for Singapore's proprietary development.

Little known to most people, the station actually houses several Malay and Indian hawker stalls, ranging from prata to Ramly burger, Indian rojak and my favourite....chapati.

But with the impending re-development of the heritage station building, all these food stalls will have to pack up and leave. That means only one thing - eat chapati before it's too late! 



Not unlike the more commonly seen naan and roti prata, chapati is an unleavened flat bread originating from the Indian subcontinent. Chapatis are made from wheat flour, water and ghee (the word ghee is actually dervied from Sanskrit and refers to traditional Indian clarified butter -- it instantly ups the yum-factor on any South Asian dish but...also ups the fat content by far greater proportions as well!)

My favourite chapati stall is situated all the way inside, right next to the railway tracks. Relax - you don't need your passport to eat there even though you're technically in Malaysia!

The chapati is made fresh on the spot - if you're early enough before the lunch crowd streams in, you can see them rolling the dough and laying them to cook on the tava (flat skillet).

The chapatis are always served warm, and best eaten with a host of other dishes a la nasi padang or cai peng style. I totally dig the keema -- a minced lamb stew of sorts with potatos, peas and carrots, and a slight dash of spice for that perfect kick.

Keema (right front) goes best with fresh, warm chapatis

More traditional dishes like curry chicken, sambal sotong, beef rendang etc can be found here. Just point at your dishes, tell them how many people are sharing, and they'll know how much to serve up.

Pair your meal with one of the best teh halia (milk ginger tea) around town. I like mine with ice - takes the heat off the weather and the spice in the food :)

Be warned -- although the food doesn't look like much, many small dishes make a large and plentiful meal. And don't forget, the chapatis will expand in your stomach. I'd say 2 chapatis is usually sufficient to keep you sated for a while.

Heaped mound of freshly fried "vegetable bombs"

And if you're still feeling the munchies after your chapati meal, pick up some "banana bombs" or "vegetable bombs" (as I endearingly call them) from the stall next door. These are typically fried dough balls, rolled in with either bananas or julienned vegetables. There're also curry puffs, kueh kuehs and goreng pisangs to suit your fancy. You definitely won't miss the array of fried snacks on display for your picking!

The part that really makes the meal "whole" though, is the ambience. Sitting right next to the railway tracks along the platform, at old stone and brick tables and plastic fold-outs, you'd feel like you stepped into a time machine and headed back to the 1980s (not least because the station needs a long overdue makeover).

But it adds to the old-school charm, and given that the rest of Singapore around this Malaysian enclave is growing at a speed no one can compare to, it's nice to come to a place that time seems to have forgotten...for now.